Northeastern Recreational Climbing

Dictionary - Wiki

If the word you’re looking for is a piece of gear, head over to our Gear page. For more exhaustive glossaries, you can try this or this

Word Meaning
Aid Gear used as a means of ascent or protection in a manner that it would not normally be used. This is sometimes frowned upon, and depending on who you’re talking to some say it invalidates your ascent. Example: pulling on a quickdraw (generally awful idea, don’t do it), or using specialized gear like ascenders
Ale Ale Ale Venga Venga Venga
Anchor Usually at the top of the route, used to set up the rappel system or top rope.
Approach The trail or hike taken to get to the climb.
Arête The corner, side, or outward facing feature of a rock face.
Back-step Turning hips and feet in one direction in order to stay close to the wall
Barn door Loosing balance due to incorrect technique in which the left hand/left foot or right hand/foot both lose contact with the wall simultaneously, creating a door opening motion
Beta Information, generally used to describe/ask about the sequence, method, or solution of completing a climb (i.e. What’s your beta on this problem?)
Bicycle Placing both feet on either side of a hold in order to compress on it and keep body tension
Bomber Relating to gear, meaning it’s very solid. 10/10 would whip.
Bouldering Climbing boulders using the protection of crash pads and (hopefully) a spotter
Bump Using an intermediate hold to reach for a further hold
Burn Refers to one try, or attempt, on a climb (i.e. Good burn, give it a burn)
Campus Ascending a route without feet, hands only. Good way to show off, but also to train.
Chossy Generally loose or sketchy climbing, typically involving loose rock or features
Crag Wherever you’re climbing.
Crimp (climbing hold) Small, horizontal edge. 3 Types: Open hand crimp, half crimp, full crimp.
Cross Crossing hands across body to reach a hold
Crux The hardest move or sequence of a climb.
Deadpoint Using momentum to reach a hold dynamically, in which the hold is located at the apex of the motion
Decking Out Falling and hitting the ground. Ouch.
Deep-Water solo Climbing routes without ropes, above bodies of water that are deep enough to prevent you from hitting its bottom. Falling means landing in the water and wet shoes.
Dihedral “Open book” formation, where two faces meet at an inward corner.
Drop-knee A drop knee where your inner-turned knee is rotated below your foot
Dyno Using momentum to reach a hold dynamically in which all points of contact with the wall are lost momentarily
Flag Normal, back, front. Using one leg as a counterbalance in order to maintain body control on moves.
Flake Somewhat detached bit of rock from the main face. Can sometimes be loose, check it before putting weight on or hanging off of it.
Flash To complete a climb on your first attempt, possibly with advanced knowledge of the correct Beta
Free solo Climb a route without the aid of anything other than the climber’s ability not to fall. Often times falling means serious injury or death, please do not attempt this.
Gamba Gamba Gamba C’mon! You got this! We are all supporting you!
Gaston (climbing hold) A kind of grip which involves pushing a hold instead of pulling (off to the side)
Heel Hook Leveraging/compressing on a foot hold using a heel, opening ones hips.
Highball A very tall (and very dangerous) bouldering problem.
Jug (climbing hold) Positive holds (can get hands behind and exert downward and outward force. Generally good holds.
Lead Climbing Climbing a route and setting your protection as you go. Instead of the rope being above you like with Top Roping, the rope dangles below you and you bring it up with you as you go, securing it along the way.
Line A.K.A. a route, or a climb. i.e. You know any sick lines in this area?
Lockoff Holding one or both arms in a bent position
Match Placing both hands on a single hold
Mantle Pushing yourself onto a ledge, similar to getting out of a swimming pool. Sometimes involves attempting to stand on the same surface that the hands are on.
Onsight To complete a climb on your first attempt having never seen the climb previously/having no Beta
Pinch (climbing hold) Active hold, necessary to use fingers and thumb to compress hold (i.e. carrying a textbook)
Project Typically a difficult route/problem that takes many tries to both figure out and complete, possibly over multiple days
Pump, pumped out Forearm fatigue after climbing, as if someone pumped up your forearms. Caused by lactic acid buildup in the muscles.
Rappel Descend a rock face or other near-vertical surface by using a doubled rope secured to the climber and fixed at a higher point
Redpoint To complete a climb fully from ground up
Rope Solo Using advanced techniques to safely arrest a fall using a rope without a partner.
Sandbag When a route’s grade is completely different than how the climb feels. Could be undergraded, or just a strange climb.
Send The completion of a climb
Sequence The series of moves and body positions used to complete a climb.
Sick Totally rad. i.e. You know any sick lines in this area?
Side-pull (climbing hold) Orientation of a hold where it is leveraged from one side.
Slab A flat rock face that is either vertical or slightly positive. Climbs on walls like this often require a lot of balance and trust in your footwork.
Sloper (climbing hold) Negative hold, necessary to use friction and downward force in order to hold on
Smear Applying direct perpendicular pressure to a wall in using the soles of your shoes in the absence of better footholds.
Sport Climbing Climbing using the protection of a rope, however the climber sets their own protection by periodically clipping quickdraws to pre-existing bolts drilled into the rock. A form of lead climbing.
Spot, Spotter Having someone positioned to catch or push you to saftey in the event of a fall close to the ground. Control the faller’s center of mass, direct them to a mat, and protect their head.
Toe Hook Using ones toe to exert pressure on the far side of a hold in order to keep body tension
Top Roping Climbing while attached to a rope that is securely attached to the top of the route. The safest way to climb.
Topping Out Climbing to the very top of the climb, usually finishing by standing on top.
Trad Climbing A.K.A Traditional climbing. Instead of using pre-existing bolts, climbers set their own gear for protection, such as cams and nuts, in constrictions, cracks, or features in the wall. A form of lead climbing.
Traverse Climb a face laterally or diagonally instead of upwards.
Undercling (climbing hold) Orientation of a hold where it is held underneath
Venga Venga Venga Gamba Gamba Gamba
Whip, whipper A hard or dynamic fall in which the person falling is nearly freefalling for a significant amount of time before the rope catches them.